Clarion Content

The Clarion found the new Durham restaurant, Watts Grocery, on Broad Street just west of downtown, a wonderful experience. In an older building, just a couple of doors down from the legendary Durham pool hall, The Green Room, Watts Grocery has converted what used to be Pars Oriental Rugs into a beautiful space. They have maintained the rugged exposed brick and duct work that give the place an urban, older Durham feel.

Beneath duct work and beside the brick, the other colors are soft, easy hues, that make the place feel comfortable and welcoming, not trendy and over the top. The bar is a L shaped. It is highlighted by the short side of the L which does double duty as a display case filled with owner, Amy Tornquist's memories, from her grandmother's handwritten recipes, to family photos, to Durham headlines and momentos from her youth. The bar service continues right over the top of this display and this is in fact where the Clarion and friend ate last week.

The service was terrific. The bartender was a wit and handled getting us dinner and drinks with cool aplomb. Occasionally in a nice joint it is a risk to get waited on over the bar, occasionally it is a treat, this was a case of the latter. We ate the bar because when we called for reservations we found they were booked. It is a small intimate space, probably no more than 12 to 15 tables. This intimacy melds perfectly with the rest of the warm atmosphere.

The food was good, too, bordering on excellent. The truth is the entrees were far superior to the appetizers. The Clarion's delightful dinner company had a mixed green salad tossed with tomatoes, red bell peppers, pecans and roasted garlic. It was good, but standard fare in these kind of restaurants now a days. The dressing no act of culinary bravery either, was the usual balsamic vinaigrette. This was unfortunate because we were mildly disappointed with our own appetizer, also. It was an oyster stew with bacon, thyme and fresh spinach. It was inoffensive, but rather too mild and bland. The Clarion loves spinach and bacon, so perhaps hopes were too high, but within moments after the first spoonful we were instinctively going for the salt and pepper, never a good sign for the chef. (Neither appetizer was bad, both were, in fact, pretty good, in the damning with faint praise kind of way.)

The entrees, however, were superb. Our friend had a organic salmon glazed with molasses chile, served over collard green risotto. We both love risotto. Though the Clarion is more of a collard green fan than our friend, both of us loved the texture and taste of the risotto. The salmon was cooked perfectly and the molasses chile was supremely savory. Ironically, neither of us anticipated chili as a theme, but the Clarion had a chili accented entree, too. It was a beautifully presented plate of chili braised short ribs, tender as could be, the meat just fell off the bone. They were served with a celery root puree and brussels sprouts. The brussels sprouts, which are easily under or over cooked were the ideal consistency and firmness.

The pace of the meal was just what we had hoped. Leisurely and relaxing, sometimes a restaurant with a lot of reservations will try to push folks through, or at minimum ignore the folks appear to be going slowly, so as to focus on turning other tables. That was never the case here, not once did the Clarion feel rushed or ignored. We had a before dinner cocktail and finished off with a good cup of coffee. Two more thoughts, it really was good coffee, the Clarion is a stickler and a coffee snob. Both of which explain our final thought and why Watts Grocery is an A- work in progress, not quite an A just yet. With this wonderful coffee, despite a clearly voiced request for a half and half, we were served whole milk. When we reiterated our request, as coffee aficionados we appreciate the difference, we were told they didn't have any half and half. Oh well, it was a great meal, anyway, ended with a good cup of coffee. They left something to strive for; all and all, Watts Grocery was great service, wonderful, authentic atmosphere, excellent entrees, and reasonably priced for the experience.

Labels: Durham, food, Pop Culture